First Aid In Dogs and Cats

Golden Rules

• Be prepared – keep your first aid kit organised and up to date.
• Don’t panic at the first sign of a problem, try and remain calm and be logical in your approach
• Know when to seek further help – minor problems may often be dealt with at home but if in any doubt consult your vet

First aid as the name suggests is the first treatment you would give when presented with an injury or traumatic episode. We all hope that our pets will never be in the situation where it is needed however the preparation of a basic first aid kit and some tips on how to handle situations may make dealing with an emergency much easier.

Cuts and tears:

These may vary from small superficial skin tears with little blood to larger gashes that require stitching. Basic examination of the wound will help you decide what to do.

• Trim away any hair that is covering the wound
• Flush well with a good amount of warm water or saline, this will remove any dust or debris
• Apply a light bandage or dressing if possible to minimise further contamination- consult your vet if you are worried.

Bleeding wounds:

Some deep wounds or those on ears or tails may bleed profusely. The most important thing to do here is to apply pressure.

• For severe wounds where a lot of blood is being lost use a tea towel to create a firm pad. This can be bandaged firmly onto the wound and should not be removed until you reach the vets
• Ears – a head bandage can be applied alternatively use something to hold the ear firmly to the head to stop repeated flapping and give time for a clot to form
• Tails – lots of tape is often required to hold these in place.
• Sometimes wounds that appear small, for example a puncture wound caused by a bite may be significantly contaminated by bacteria. There may be tissue damaged underneath the skin that requires veterinary treatment.

Seizures:

Although these may seem very frightening when they occur it is very important you remain calm.

• Reduce any external stimuli if possible such as loud noises or bright lights
• Many animals may lose control of bladder or bowel function during a fit this is not unusual
• Do not attempt to try and clear an airway you may get bitten
• Reassure your pet whilst the seizure is happening, talk quietly and calmly.

Heat stroke:

Signs may include excessive panting, disorientation, collapse or seizures.

• Wet towels with cold water and apply them to less hairy parts of the body such as under the front and back legs and over the abdomen. Change the towels as they begin to warm.
• Create an airflow either using a fan or an open window in a moving car.
• Avoid completely submerging your animal in water this may lead to more problems

With Christmas fast approaching, sadly there are a lot of foods we eat at this time of year which are harmful to our pets. There are also other potential hazards around the house including decorations and toys which we need to be mindful of. Mince pies and Christmas cake often contain grapes and raisins which are toxic to dogs and cats and can lead to kidney failure. Signs of ingestion include vomiting and diarrhea. It is advisable to keep these out of reach of your pet. Some of these cakes and pies can also contain alcohol which should be avoided.

Chocolates are often plentiful around the house at Christmas time. Chocolate especially dark chocolate contains theobromine which is toxic to pets. In smaller quantities it can cause stomach upset such as vomiting and diarrhea but in larger amounts can lead to neurological signs and can be dangerous. Dogs will often eat the wrappers of sweets and chocolate which can cause its own issues such as obstructions.

Bones should always be avoided; it is ok to give your pet small amounts of turkey but making sure it is free from any small bones/ fragments. These bones can cause problems like constipation or more seriously can lodge in pet’s throats or digestive tract. Cooked bones can also splinter after ingestion and cause perforation of your pet’s intestines.

Tinsel and small toys should be kept out of reach of pets in case of accidental ingestion.  Mistletoe and holly berries are both toxic to dogs and cats if ingested. Signs of holly and mistletoe toxicity include vomiting, excessive drooling and diarrhea.

If you suspect your pet has ingested any toxins it is important to contact your veterinary clinic straight away.

Where a cat is not intended to be bred from we fully support spaying, not only as part of responsible pet ownership, but for your pet’s benefit also.  There are multiple indications for spaying: Prevention of ‘calling’ and attracting tomcats and obviously a subsequent pregnancy. Did you know that mating in cats causes ovulation? This means every time a cat mates, you are nearly guaranteed a pregnancy – and when your cat starts calling, she will find a way out to mate and get pregnant. An unneutered cat and her offspring could be responsible for 100 kittens within 7 years!

Unlike in dogs, we can neuter cats when they are “in heat”/ calling. – So it is never too late to book your cat in for neutering.

Apart from an unwanted pregnancy, there is less risk of pyometra (a horrible, life threatening infection in the womb), less risk of the spread of FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus) and feline leukaemia and other reproductive issues such as ovarian cysts and cancer.

Equally, male cats should be castrated, in order to avoid unwanted kittens, reduce territorial fighting and the spread of FIV and feline leukaemia.

Should you decide to get your pet neutered, your pet will be admitted on the morning of the operation. Any questions you may have will be answered by the veterinary surgeon or veterinary nurse at your pre-operative consultation. Your pet will be given an injection of pain relief and a mild sedative to help them relax whilst waiting for the operation. Once anaesthetised, an area of hair will be clipped on the side of the belly and the skin prepared for sterile surgery. After the ovaries and uterus have been removed, incisions in the abdominal muscles, fat and skin will be stitched closed.

We hope that you are now able to make an informed decision regarding spaying. Contact our team to learn more.

Protecting our pets and making sure they stay fit and healthy is the most important thing when we decide to introduce a pet to our family. Throughout your pet’s life, it is crucial that you regularly utilise effective, preventative therapies to ward off parasites for the long-term health and wellness of both your pet and your family. Keep in mind that prevention is much simpler and less expensive than treatment.

What are fleas?

A flea is a small, reddish brown, wingless insect, which feeds off the blood of mammals. This can include pets such as our dogs, cats and rabbits but can also include tasty humans. Although they are small they can be seen with the naked eye and are about 1-3 mm long. They have flat bodies and very powerful back legs which mean they can jump huge distances for their size.

Fleas do not live on your pet; they just hop on and off to feed and can live in your floorboards and carpets.  Once you see a flea or flea dirt in the coat, you may have a problem in your house.

What are worms?

There are several different worms that might infect your pet and harm your pet. Roundworms, lungworms, and tapeworms are among the numerous worms that prey on animals. Some worms have the capacity to lay more than 100,000 eggs per day, which are then dispersed across the environment by the pet’s faeces.

Treatment to take

You should:

• Kill any adult fleas on your pet to stop them biting with a spot on.
• Break the flea life cycle to stop more adult fleas hatching out with a household spray.

Once you have identified a problem you will have to ensure rigorous flea control for a further 12 months before you can be confident that you have resolved it.  But of course: prevention is best.

At Glasslyn Vets, we always promote the importance of flea and worm treatments for your pet to ensure they are protected against one of the most common dangers.  We stock Advocate (a monthly spot on) and Bravecto Plus (a 3 monthly spot on), which treat fleas and most worms.  In addition, you should give your cat a tapeworm tablet very 6-12 months if she is an outdoor cat. Do it twice yearly if she is an avid hunter.

If you would like to know more about flea And worm treatments, contact us today.

What is FIV?
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus is a virus that attacks the immune system. It is commonly
transmitted through saliva and blood, for example bite wounds, and is more common in outdoor
or feral cats that are not neutered.

What is FeLV?
Feline Leukemia Virus also attacks the immune system, but this is mainly transmitted through
body excretion exchanges such as sharing litter trays/food bowls or mutual grooming.

Symptoms of FIV and FeLV include the following:
• Upper respiratory Issues
• Fever
• Poor appetite
• Oral infections/inflammation
• Diarrhoea
• Anaemia

Here in Glasslyn we offer a test which requires a small blood sample from the patient and only
takes 15-20minutes for results. This can be booked in through a consultation with one of our
vets. A small blood sample must be collected from your cat to run the test, and the results will be
ready within 15-20 minutes. We advise to wait until they are at least 6 months of age before
testing for any of these viruses. Cats that test positive for FIV/FeLV can still potentially lead a
normal life but would require more care and attention and would also be advised to live indoors
to reduce the risk of the virus spreading to other feline friends.

Vaccines against the FeLV virus are available here in Glasslyn but unfortunately there are no
vaccines available to protect against the FIV virus.

Neutering is strongly advised from 6 months of age to reduce the spread of these viruses.

November is “Cat Appreciation Month” here at Glasslyn and we are offering 10% off all cat neuters in our Bandon and Kinsale branches during the week of the 14th of November. Book early to avoid disapointment!

For celebration of Pocket Pets month, we will focus on rabbits in this article.
Rabbits are great little pets with a lot of personality. They are very sociable animals and should ideally be kept as a pair but can be kept alone. They will give their owner a lot of love and attention!
They are also very intelligent and can learn a lot of tricks with some patient training.
As a ‘Pocket Pet’, they need less space than a medium to large sized dog, so an appropriately sized cage and a few outings a day in your flat/ house or garden, will suffice plenty.
Another positive point of owning a rabbit is that, compared to some other small furries, they get relatively old, usually reaching 8 years or older.
When it comes to expenses, rabbits might look small – but they actually do eat a lot. Pellets and vegetables only make 10% of their diet, the other 90% consist of hay (or grass if you have plenty of it).
They also have a very fast metabolism and a trip to the vet can be quite costly because they often require the same amount of drugs than a large dog! Rabbits can also be very complex and when they are poorly, we often have to address and treat multiple organs at once.
Routine vaccinations against Myxomatosis and viral Haemorrhagical disease should be performed once yearly, as well as regular deworming if they are kept outside.
In any case, rabbits make great family pets, especially for people who do not want to go for walks or enjoy a silent pet, but make sure to do your homework.

I personally use the WET (weight, exercise, treatment) approach.

Weight: Excess pressure puts a huge strain on joints and when looking at a pain scale (i.e. 10/10 for pain), the pain score drop most significantly in obese animals who lose weight.

The advice is simple if you pet is overweight: cut out any treats or replace them with low calorie treats (such as Educ treats) and if your pet already does not get any extra food, reduce the food intake overall by 20% or failing that, switch to a prescription eight loss diet.

Here at Glasslyn, we are always happy to perform free of charge weight clinics – you can call us to book in for those!

Exercise: Ideally, every arthritic dog would get a physio- or hydrotherapy referral to target specific problem joints.

But in general, low impact exercise in the water (minimum of 10 minutes twice weekly) and little and often is best.

5K walks should not be your priority anymore as prolonged forces will put abnormal pressure on the joints and will worsen arthritis in time.

Treatment:

In the acute phase of arthritis, we should focus on acute pain management.

Our first line treatment is usual non-steroidal anti inflammatories (i.e. carprofen/ meloxicam), as it also deals with soft tissue swellings.

Sometimes we add in gabapentin or other pain killers that belong to the opioid group.

Recently, new products have come out on the market: Librela for dogs and Solensia for cats. This is a mononuclear antibody injection that mops up the messenger that signals arthritic pain. This provides superior pain relief, is however quite costly and is usually reserved for more advanced cases.

Personally, I also like putting a lot of emphasis on improving joint quality.

By improving the joint quality, we do not only eventually get a pain killing effect so that we can use less pain killers in the longer term but we also might slow the progression of arthritis down.

I quite like Cartrophen injections for dogs, which is pentosane sulphate and this injection is given weekly for 4 weeks. After the 3^rd injection, 75% of clients see a vast improvement (usually after the 4^th injection 99% of clients see a big improvement in the dog’s gait and pain level). The course of injections is repeated every 6-9 months (depending on the severity of the arthritis) .

Cartrophen not only improves the joint fluid quality but also prevent nasty enzymes gnawing away at the cartilage – thus it has the potential to slow down the progression of arthritis.

In addition, essential fatty acids (EFAs) reduce inflammation overall and should also be used. These are usually combined with glucosamines and chondroitin, which are proteins that we do find in joints – but it was discovered that there is no glucosamine transporter in the intestines, which means glucosamines need to be built down and up again as they are not directly absorbed.

Other supplements, such as boswelia or turmeric may also be used.

In any case, a multimodal approach is needed to manage arthritis.

On 24 August 2022 Glasslyn Vets hosted a Free Puppy Party!

This included a free Vet check and loads of goodies like Food, Toys, Poo bags, Treats and Vouchers.

Keep an eye on our Website Homepage and social media pages for our next event!

Hedgehogs are one of our most loved native mammals. They are especially loved by gardeners thanks to their habit of eating slugs. Sadly, due to loss of habitat, increased road traffic & use of insecticides, their numbers have dropped by 30% in the last decade. Taking care of hedgehogs has never been so important. Here are our top tips for looking after hedgehogs and creating a hedgehog friendly garden.

How to make your garden hedgehog friendly

• Hedgehogs need space to roam, they can cover up to 19km every night! To help them out you can cut holes at ground level in fences or dig channels under dense hedges so they can get through easily. The holes should be about 13cm in width & height
• Refrain from using pesticides if possible. Pesticides such as slug pellets can poison hedgehogs if they eat affected slugs. Less slugs also means less food for hedgehogs
• Don’t be too tidy. Leave some tall perennials & piles of leaves standing over winter or leave an area of grass unmown to create homes for insects. Mulch beds with compost to encourage earthworms and build woodpiles to attract woodlice. Hedgehogs love to eat bugs & worms!
• If you have a pond in your garden, make sure hedgehogs and other wildlife can get out of it. Make a shallow beach at one end or use a plank of wood wrapped in chicken wire as a non- slip ramp
• Always check for hedgehog nests before forking over compost heaps or strimming long grass.

Feeding Hedgehogs in your garden

Hedgehogs always benefit from being given extra food. They love meat flavoured cat food both wet & dry but should also be provided with a shallow dish of fresh water. Ceramic bowls are less likely to be knocked over so are a great choice. You can make your own hedgehog feeding station easily using a large plastic storage container. A brick should be placed on the lid, this prevents cats & foxes eating the food. Carefully cut a hole out of the container around 4.5’’ square, cover edges with tape to prevent sharp edge and place food & water bowls in the very back.

What to do if you find a hedgehog

If you see a hedgehog out in the daytime, it could be injured or sick. With the exception of pregnant females who venture out during the day to gather nesting materials or in search of extra food. These hedgehogs will be very active and should be left alone whereas a sick animal may be staggering or not moving at all. Please phone us if you find a sick hedgehog or are concerned about an animal, for more advice on 023 88 41404 / 021 4772277

Early  pregnancy test results give you more detailed information for your herd reproduction reports, so you can accurately assess your herd’s reproduction performance.  Herd reproduction reports need a high percentage of cows to have an early aged results. To get early aged pregnancy test results, cows must be scanned between 35 and 122 days of pregnancy (5 to 17 weeks).

Depending on your mating length, you may need to do more than one round of pregnancy testing to get early aged results for your whole herd.

1st scan (12 to 14 weeks after mating start date)  to ensure that cows that got pregnant in the first 6 weeks of mating will have early aged results.

2nd scan (at least 42 days after the end of mating) to age cows that got pregnant in the later part of mating.